Using Photoshop to create natural landscape photos that include the moon
When photographing landscapes at twilight that include the moon, proper exposure can be nearly impossible to achieve. That’s because while the dim light of twilight requires a relatively long exposure, the moon requires nearly a sunny-16 exposure. As a result, there is no one camera exposure setting that will get the scene right. Your options are:
Under-expose the scene and recover shadows & highlights in post
Properly expose for the landscape and blow out the moon
Bracket exposures and combine them in post
All of the above options have drawbacks. In an under-exposed image, you’ll be prone to getting noise when you try to recover shadow details, and you may or may not be able to recover detail in the moon. If the moon is very small in the frame (as with wide-angle lenses), you can make the conscious choice to just allow it to blow out completely. Bracketing exposures is another option, but I’ve found that traditional exposure blending or HDR tone-mapping just doesn’t quite produce the results I’d like, because the blown-out areas around the moon often bleed into the sky or are exacerbated by thin clouds.
Recently while I was in the field, I decided to try a variation on exposure blending. I captured two shots: the first was exposed only for the moon, and the second shot was properly exposed for the landscape. I then used Adobe Photoshop to combine the images, but instead of just blending them (as with a traditional composite), I had to completely remove the blown-out moon from the landscape photo using Photoshop’s Content-Aware Fill tool.
Video: Processing Landscape Photos with the Moon (Photoshop)
When I got my infrared-converted Nikon Z6 mirrorless camera, a colleague told me to watch out for banding in my images. I have never seen banding in images from my normal Nikon Z cameras, so I wasn’t sure what to expect.
It turns out that in rare instances, I can detect slight banding patterns, especially if I’ve made strong local contrast adjustments, like the Structure slider in Silver Efex Pro 2.
While Adobe Lightroom Classic is a powerful image editor and workflow management tool in its own right, there are certain things that it cannot do. To go beyond Lightroom, you need a pixel editor such as Adobe Photoshop. In this class, I will teach you how and why to utilize Adobe Photoshop alongside Lightroom. I will present a coherent Lightroom/Photoshop workflow strategy and take you through the features of Photoshop that every Lightroom user should know, including:
How to prepare images for Photoshop in the Lighroom Develop Module
I created this image using the multi-step approach I teach on my workshops, which I feel is crucial for any modern digital photographer: Camera/Composition/Post-Processing Continue reading POTD: Abandoned House→
If you’re using one of the new iMacs or MacBooks with Retina Display for Adobe Photoshop, you may have noticed that your images look very small when selecting, View–> Print Size. That’s because the retina display has a MUCH higher resolution than the typical CRT or LCD monitor. Most displays have a screen resolution around 72 pixels per inch (ppi), which is far less than what you get with a retina display.